So it’s been over a year since my last hardware disassembly and I know you guys are thirsty for more! So here it is… Introducing Joyetech’s firmware upgrade-able Cuboid Mini (Kit), the little sister to the original, now about to be stripped naked from it’s shiny new dress. Fully disassembled for your viewing pleasure but first, here are the specs:
Cuboid Mini with Notch Coil Features:
- Full kit
- 80W power output
- TC temp control
- Notch Coils
- 510 threading
- Micro-USB charging port
(USB charging/data cable included)
- Matching rounded square tank with glass window
Joyetech Cuboid Mini Kit Specification:
- eLiquid Capacity: 5ml
- Output Mode: VT-Ti/VT-SS316/VW/BYPASS/TCR MODE
- Output Wattage: 1-80W
- Resistance Range: 0.05-1.5ohm for VT Mode ; 0.1-3.5ohm for VW/BYPASS Mode
- Temperature Range: 100-315°C (200-600°F)
I literally purchased this mode less than three days ago. I’m using the 0,5 SS coil, which I believe is stainless steel. Several hours in, I’m still on the first charge which is great and the battery has barely moved. The clouds I’m able to produce from this unit is surprisingly vast!! Taste wise, it’s fuckin awesome! Now, I like fruit juices and in previous mods the sweetness was never really defined, I was always complaining there’s not enough sweetness. However on the cuboid, it’s become really sweet.. A tad too sweet. 😆 Sometimes I feel I need bigger lungs at times. 😆
Unfortunately in the UK the kit version, that I own, isn’t widely available. Since the 20 May 2016 ‘vaping crackdown’, the EU, has introduced new laws which affects the tanks size! Anything over 2ml is not allowed FFS — I’m not entirely sure why they’ve done this as heavy users will simply carry a bottle around with them, making the 2ml limitation useless. Oh well.. Their lost! – This may well be another reasons we’ve chosen to Brexit. Fuck those European bureaucrats 🙄
Well, I’m already itching to peak inside to see how it shapes up, wonder how this compares to the explosive eleaf? 🙄 For this you’ll need a Torx T4 screwdriver and something strong and thin. I’m using a metal ruler.
To break into the mod, you’ll need to remove the metalic “cuboid mini” label from the back. Now I used a scalpel to ease it off. Try not to bending it cause it’s very thin metal and will distort if you’re not careful — Since we want to retain the adhesive, I’d recommend placing this on some wax paper; you don’t wanna get dirt on the sticky back if you are to restore it later! Though the unit doesn’t look half bad without it.. and I question how long the label will actually stay put? Behind the branding lays two Torx-T4 screws, remove those and the two on top.
So, when your pulling the top off, be careful, there’s two very short and very stiff wires connected to the 510 mount. Once you’ve pulled the top off, you need to remove the very flimsy black acrylic front, in-order to move the buttons. This held down by industrial strength double sided tape. Take your time and don’t rush — Use your nails or a guitar pick to help if required.
On a YouTube video I’ve seen, the innards appear to slide out without any additional help. On mine, that wasn’t the case. The battery was clearly held in place with tiny smear of silicon gel. I used a very thin metal ruler to help easy the battery out. Just gentility wiggling the PCB and carefully slide it between the back of the case and the battery’s heat-shrink. Then apply a little force on the front buttons. Don’t try to press on the OLED display, you’ll most likely crack it and I doubt you’ll be able to find spares, with a little luck the entire unit should slide out.
Inside you see the pretty compact unit that appears to be well constructed. They’ve added a small heatsink to, what looks like the charging circuit or voltage regulators.
The display itself is mounted to the main PCB with a simple bit of sticky foam. Now you’d might think this display could potentially be destroyed if the unit was dropped, I don’t know… It seems Joyetech has designed the case with guide rails to keep the module in place, which should, in theory prevent the display from destroying itself should you accidentally drop the mod — We’ll see…
Tucked behind the display appears to be an unmarked controller, at least on mine it appears so. I’m glad they’ve done away with the mini-switch. In this unit the trigger in this unit appears to be full-sized two prong micro-switch, similar to those micro-switches you find on cheap computer mice, only the prongs are at right angles. It’s supported by the top section to prevent it from moving too much, which should help prevent the switch from detaching from the PCB when used heavily.
Stuck to the back of the PCB is the custom made-to-order Li-Ion pack with the model JS 583155, rated at 9.25wh. I did try a google search to find a similar replacement should this battery eventually dies, turns out there’s nothing actually listed for 583155. Those rated at 9.25Wh were only 3.7v with a 4.7v peak were totally the wrong dimensions.
It’s been about two days now and my unit has finally become flat. Recharging the Cuboid is a matter of plugging it in and leaving it to charge. I personally don’t use my computer for this, instead I’ll use the 2A charger from my old Samsung mobile.
However on my unit, the whole device appears to get rather warm. Switching it off then tapping the trigger 10 times reveals the temperature is 46ºC (114.8ºF). Now, I don’t know is this a problem or it’s normal.. but I shell definitely not recommend leaving it on charge over night. Just for safety as non of my other lithium powered devices become this warm!
Upgrading the firmware was a piece of piss. Simply download the archive from Joyetech, select either the Mac or Windows version, depending on your platform. Unpack it to your desktop and run the execute. Then plug-in the unit and wait for your system to finish installing drivers. Once ready, the application will ask you to locate the binary, then it’s a matter of pressing Update. Wait a few seconds and unplug. If you should encounter problems, Joyetech recommends you to unplug the unit, grab a pin and hit the reset button under the unit. This should in theory reset the unit, allowing you to re-flash the firmware.
To switch the unit on/off, you tap the trigger 5 times.
To change modes, you tap the trigger 3 times.
Then pressing the left button will allows you to select the different elements. To make changes to them, you hit the right button.
Pressing and hold the trigger whilst holding the right side of the button will allow you to enter it’s menu. Here you can enable/disable the logo. If you hit the right button again, you can find a little game.. Just don’t ask me how to play.. lol
Pressing and hold the trigger and holding the left side of the button for a few seconds will enable “stealth” mode. This is essentially allows you to turn off the display and potentially save power.
Pressing and holding both left and right buttons allows you to lock the unit. This will prevent you from accidentally changing the settings and power.
To check the temperature, Tap the trigger 10 times.
And as usual, if you have any questions. Please don’t be afraid to ask…