: iStick 50W

So recently eLeaf introduced a brand new product to their line of iStick battery range called the iStick 50W… This one offered some improvements of the previous models including a wider range of output voltage, user settable from 2V to 10V, power settings from 5W-50W with an advertised 4400 mAh battery capacity. a spring loaded battery connector making it universally usable with all 510 tanks, wear-resistant stainless steel thread and a wide range of operating temperatures from 0ºC (32ºF) to 70ºC (158ºF).

Battery safety features were added making sub-ohming safer, preventing over heating, leading to possible explosions… and believe me you don’t want lithium ion batteries exploding in your hands or anywhere near you!!

After much prompting from a mate, I decided to dive in and buy one of those puppies. This way my Kangar Mini sub-tank would fit on perfectly without that ugly over-hang I’ll get otherwise have from my other devices.

A couple of days ago, mine arrived. So excited..

Instead of powering her up or making a product reviews like everyone else (no names mentioned), to test the power and features she had to offer; I went directly to ripping her apart. Out came the precision screwdriver set and digital camera.. Admittedly I was curious what made this device special enough to warrant the £55 price tag, most local retailers were asking – not the price I paid however. Surely a couple of 18650 lithium-ion rechargeable battery isn’t worth this much, is it?

For those of you who know me, this will come to no surprise.  I love my technology and there’s nothing more satisfying than ripping shit apart to explore what makes them tick, or in this case checkout the build quality. Something most people will never see since this device is assembled with tiny torx screws..

Let’s see..

Upon removing the end caps and pulling the unit out, I notice the battery assembly was held together with nothing more than kapton tape and sticky foam. Peeling back the kapton tape and removing the foam backing; probably there to prevent battery rattle but more importantly, a short circuit. I learnt they’ve used two single batteries instead of a pre-made pack like those you often find in laptop batteries, soldered together in parallel to increase the power capacity instead of increasing the voltage. They’ve used a pretty coarse wire, though it’s insulation is pretty thin.

On my unit the OLED display is held down by more double-sided tape, directly to the display board, worst, it wasn’t what I call ‘straight’. It’s mounted too far a away from the controller and at an slight angle. Making it appear slight wonky when viewed through the window, with the far right of the battery indicator covered.

There’s an easy fix to this, just a matter of reposition the display and creating a gentle bend in the flexible flat cable (as shown), or better yet, de-solder, reposition and re-solder the unit – not for the faint hearted as those flexible flat cables are easily damaged.

Now with the display cover placed over the OLED, everything looks near perfect.

Quality control:
The inner build quality could have been better considering the selling price – I guess when most users don’t have the tools to open this device, the manufacturers can be as sloppy as they wish, it’s more cost effective after-all; assembling all the components together with double-sided sticky foam and high temperature kapton tape. Their main concern is to make sure the device operates within their safety requirements and it appears to perform fine.

There are several over-sized blobs of solder on each solder tags both on the battery and on the PCB with more then enough tinned wire shown than necessary. Thankfully everything is neatly insulated with more sticky foam and kapton tape – seems to be the only material holding the inner parts together! It’s gotta be said, it’s not the neatest bit of engineering I’ve seen. Even if it’s assembled by a line of Chinese labourers on minimum pay.

For that extra human touch, there’s even a big fat partial fingerprint sandwiched between the clear and tinted plexiglass – did someone assemble this device with their bare hands? Saving money on gloves are we??

Future revisions?
In future revision of this product I would like to see eLeaf making the display fully view-able through the display window. as the window is physically large enough. In it’s current state, I’d imagine there will be some people finding the imperfection rather annoying but it’s an easy fix to correct if you have the tools and patience.

The 4400mAh this device offers already packs a punch for most users, I’d still like to see a higher capacity batteries being used as Cytac, RediLast, Samsung, Panasonic and various other brands offer 2950 to 3400 mAh batteries. That said, with the power boost, how about a discreet USB past through for charging mobile devices?

Summing up:
Was it worth it? Hell YES.

For the money I paid it was a bloody bargain!! In total, after discounts and everything my iStick cost me £17.00 inc. postage or for those reading this from across the pond. That’s US$25.56. However, locally I’ve seen them advertised elsewhere upto £55 and they want postage and packaging on top!!

Fuck sakes man! That’s daylight robbery – You’d have to be one egg short of a dozen to buy from them.

Here’s a few thing I’ve discovered…

To turn the device on/off, tap the fire button five times.
To switch between voltage and watts, tap the fire button three times.

Whilst the battery is OFF:
Press and hold both arrow keys for 3 seconds and the display will rotate 180º. Making the display usable for left and right handed users.

Whilst the battery is ON:
Press and hold both arrow keys for 3 seconds and it’ll lock the arrow keys, disabling you from changing the settings. The device will still fire!

For safety: Firing the battery for 10 seconds or more will trigger it’s safety feature, cutting off the unit till the fire is depressed.

  • Try pressing the fire button excactly ten times in a row in less than 2-3 seconds when the device is powered off. It will display the internal temperature of the iStick 50W for a couple od seconds.

    • Thanks a million Mika, I saw it a few times and never figured how to get it again lol now that is cleared up.

    • Dustin

      Thanks for the info. I had not idea the eleaf showed the temp. I just had the issue where my device locked and I had no idea how to unlock it until I saw this article. Thanks again for the info

      • You’re welcome Dustin, glad the information others shared as helped you. 🙂


        • Tez

          I’ve bought my eleaf 50w couple of months ago and everything was going well till now the led doesn’t show nothing at all, I’ve tried turning it on and off (pressing the fire button 5times) and still nothing…

          • tallT

            Have you tried to plug it back in, if it detects a short it will shut off until the charger is plugged in.

          • Wegowitu

            Same with mine! Mine says its fully charged but when I try to use it, the caption comes up and tells me my battery is low. I tried charging it but it did nothing. After charging it for an hour or so it works, but only for a limited time before shutting off. After plugging it in, it shows that it was on and that it had full charge!!! Anybody know what is wrong?

  • Tracy keller

    Hi, thanks so much for this!! I had my istick 50 for less than a day. Display stopped working. Any suggestions?

    • Hi Tracy,

      Firstly, you need to check to make sure the unit is switch ON and charged, hit the fire/trigger button five consecutive times. The display doesn’t work or respond to any key presses when it’s been accidentally switched off.

      If this still doesn’t solve the issue, I would recommend you getting it swapped out by your retailer.

      • Abhinav

        Hi Ms nikita, I got my istick from fasttech yesterday, and after 1 hour of vapimg the display buzzed out and froze permanently. It still shows just the resistance and voltage reading that was there before but the unit doesn’t respond to any combination of button presses. I can’t even turn off the display nor get it to fire. Tried plugging it too. Would you have any suggestions or should I return it which I woudnt like to because I’d be left without a mod for a month

        • Hi Abhinav.
          Personally I would report the problem to your supplier, the sooner the better! I’d say.

          I’ve heard from countless number of people that those things don’t have any warranty. So if you wait too long, fasttech might not replace your product. Personally I would suggest you get another mod if you can. I believe there’s an iStick60 though I’ve not used that yet.


          • Abhinav

            Hi MsNikita,

            Thanks for replying. I have told them about the product but regarding the Istick 60W Temperature control unit you recommend, wont that have way less battery life because it uses just one 18650 battery and runs to higher wattages.

    • Dave

      My display stopped working after I rushed a coil build and it popped. After trying to turn it back on numerous times I plugged the wall charger into it to force a reset it did and everything is well.

      • Tracy keller

        Thanks much Dave. I am not clear how to force a reset. You mean just plug it in and try to start it? Thanks again.

  • Jeff Farmer

    Hi Ms. Nikita I was wondering your opinion on how easy it would be to solder into new 18650 batteries into this device once the current ones are worn out. thank you. Also do believe it would be possible to have the new 18650 batteries soldered in have a higher mAH such as 2600 per battery? Or would that blow the circuit board?

    • Hi Jeff.

      I think replacing the cells would be quiet easy if you have some soldering skills. Just a matter of de-soldering the top two connections and preparing your new replacement cells. As for the other parts of the circuitry, I’m not entirely sure how it’ll handle higher amperes; I speculate it’ll probably work but I don’t wish to say – try at your own risk and get back to me.


      • John Dearing

        There is a YouTube video that shows how to solder regular 18650 batteries into the Istick 50watt just type in the search bar soldering 18650’s into Istick 50 watt.

  • Ezzat

    the tilted display is driving me nuts! 🙂 I’m not handy enough to do what you’ve done though!

    • Hi Ezzat,

      I think everyone who has issues with their iStick displays should comment.. and/or start a petition to get it sorted. I’ve heard read lots of complaints from others in various forums posts who’re not happy, so you’re not alone in this matter.


      • Ezzat

        I emailed Eleaf USA (since I purchased it from them for $69.99!!) about it, will let you know what they say (if I get a response!)

        • That’s great!! Please keep us informed of the outcome.

          For the money everyone is paying for this device, it should be nothing short of perfection, unfortunately it’s a bit off. :/

  • Nick

    Where did you buy it from for £17.00 inc. postage?
    Thank you.

    • Sorry, I’m not gonna start promoting companies on here, it’s not like they pay me.

  • Oli

    Hi Nikita

    Recently I’ve noticed that my 50w istick oled display has several rows of dead pixels. Would it be possible for me to cannibalise my 20w istick and replace the screen with that?

    Thank you very much


    • Hi Oli,

      Sorry I’ve no idea. Guess the best thing to do is open both and experiment. You might discover it’s not “dead pixels” but a dry joint in the poor soldering or a damaged flex. If it’s new, maybe you it’s better to return the product for a warranty replacement.

      Currently don’t have any other iSticks to explore. Looking into it however

  • mark

    Hi my Istick 50w has developed an issue where if i press the fire button the second counter will start counting up but it doesnt fire the tank but if i press the button really hard then it will fire anyone else had this.

    • Yes. I noticed it from day one, just lighten up the pressure on the firing button the slightest bit and coils will stop firing.

      • Tracy keller

        Yep. I think we can agree,,while it does have potential, the istick 50 is just really poor quality all the way around. Too bad

      • Kevin C

        I have the same ossue now you have to hold hard pressure to keep it firing, its a pain in the ass

    • setälä

      My istick does this too can some please help?!?

  • I dropped my istick 50w and the lcd display is half blacked out can anyone help me as can now only see the battery level just, but no idea what volt or watts im on so just have to guess and dont want to folk out £55 for a new one as it was my fault..

    • Hi Warren

      That’s really unfortunate. I guess until you open your iStick up, nobody can really give a diagnostic – Even if the display is cracked or damaged, sourcing parts to replace it will be difficult at best since those devices aren’t designed to be modular in any shape or form. Perhaps the solution is to contact eLeaf themselves and see will they consider doing a repair.

      • Yes thats was a good idea but cant see enough of the screen to see if im in vv or vw mode or know what level im vaping at:( its frustrating at it still fires up..

        • If you hit the fire button 3 times it’ll switch modes, since vv takes up less screen space. Maybe, perhaps you can see something useful?

        • Warren. Try flipping the screen! I forget how but you could flip the screen to left or right handed depending on where you started. Perhaps that will show you the vv or vw

        • You can also switch the display orientation by powering off the device, then holding the “up” and “down” buttons simultaneously till the screen flips. I hope this helps and best of luck.

    • Tracy keller

      Yep, Warren same thing here. Barely dropped it onto a soft surface and lcd is completely gone. Sure does piss ya off! Sorry. I have not been able to find an answer to the problem thus far. It still fires, I just have no idea what I am firing. Good luck!

      • blair

        I have the same problem whith myn did you ever figure out any way to get it fixed or able to return it…thanks

        • I emailed eleaf uk and still waiting for a return reply. 3 days now

    • Ro0bi

      Warren, if you are willing to do a bit of soldering yourself then this one will do for replacement although it is blue.

    • Kevin C

      Turn it off and hold the up and down buttons together foe a few that will switch the display 180 degrees see if you can see then

  • BTW have you tried rotating the display? (See bottom of my post) Maybe you can at least see its wattage.

  • Chris swindler

    I was wondering what size the torx screws are. My local hardware store only has t5 and I don’t want to buy the set unless t5 will get it open.

    • Hi Chris.

      I’ve been using a T4 to open mine. If you can’t buy them in a hardware store then perhaps you should try eBay.

    • Kevin C

      Electronixs stores usually have them

  • Brian

    Is there any type of control circuit (protection PCB) built into this device? I can’t get any answers from any other sources, hoping you could help. Thanks!

    • What do you mean, care to elaborate?

      • Brian

        More specifically an overcharge protection safety circuit built into the device itself? Li-ion cells are known for violent fires if severely overcharged or ruptured in any way. I just took it for granted that they would have included an overcharge control circuit/protection PCB in a 4400mAh Li-ion rig, the chips retail for $1 US on average…

        • Hi Brian.

          Rest assured the device probably does have some charge protection integrated into one of the SMT chips or neighbouring component, rather than a standalone DIN IC cause space is tight. This isn’t the only box mod eLeaf has created since they appeared. Now, as you know mine has been through alot, she’s been ripped apart several times, abused, photographed and she even gotten slightly wet and she still seems to function fine!

          In regards to charging, mine appears to ceases charging once it’s full, the ‘lightening’ bolt disappears from the display and entire battery flashes to signify it’s ready. Similar to what you expect from a mobile and mp3 player. Usually I normally leave it to charge overnight, sometimes the whole weekend and nothing bad has happened yet. Hope this helps.

          [Edit]17 April 2015

          It is not RECOMMENDED for anyone to leave this device charging overnight unattended!!

          • Brian

            It does. Thanks for your help & most of all your wondrous curiosity! Happy fluffy puffs, cheers

          • Patricia Bolus

            What should it read when it,s fully charged. I don,t have any lightning bolts that l have ever seen?

          • Hi Patricia,

            The lightening bolt only shows when it’s actually charging, but once charged it’s a full battery symbol. Can’t remember does it flash or not.


  • Georgy

    Hi , is there any serial nubers on the LCD of the istick ? if you can add this to the post…

    • There is nothing on the back of the OLED other then the silver reflective sticker.

      • Georgy

        sad, many search for replacment lcd…
        by the way, anyone know how much pixels it is ? height X width

  • Dave lister

    If you could post where you got it for that price, you’d be helping a lot of vapers out.
    Its helping us, and taking sales away from overpriced vapes shops.

    • Hi Dave,
      Thanks for your reply. However, another reader also asked this very same questions previously. Until such time a company is willing to supply hardware to review and take apart. I am not willing to promote companies on here.


  • Greg

    Dropped my e leaf fifty watt the display now reads low power on a full charge I am going to open it up look for loose connections any suggestions short of a cracked circuit board ?

  • Mourad Barsoum

    Hello Guys,

    I’ve noticed from the pictures posted here that each battery has the code 18650 written on it write beside the serial code bar. This means that you can use any maker’s 18650 batteries to replace those once they’re worn out, provided that you have some basic disassembling\soldering skills. have fun, hope this helps

  • Peter picolino

    Awesome brake down! I did what no one else thought of after hearing the device catches fire after being charged for 3-4 hours straight I realized there’s barely any venting going on so I took off the bottom plate put it in my drill press and punched a few hole in it works perfect it no longer gets warm at all! But that’s just something I think people should know cheers

    • Hi Peter

      Welcome to the party and thanks for your awesome mod, I hope others will find your suggestions useful.


  • Noman

    Hi been having a ohm problem with my istick when using my subtank mini. I use a 0.5 ohm coil and it reads from anything to 0.7-1.8! It always changes depending on the air control setting. Wanted to know if it’s something to do with the device it self maybe a loose connection? Any suggestions to what it could be? I have made sure all connecting pins don’t have liquid on it and have tried different coils from different vendors.

    Open to suggestions because I am currently clueless to what it could be :/

    • Hi Noman,

      Mine occasionally reads resistance inaccurately, some of my coils read 0.5 Ohm while others lower. It’s never really been something that concerns me as my device appears to work fine, though the power reading is a bit off, I’d go by taste rather than what the display suggest. Instead of relying on the box-mod to measure your resistance, I would use a multimeter or 510 Ohms reader, they’re pretty cheap and probably more reliable.


  • AhmadH

    Hi Ms. Nikita,

    I got my istick 50 recently. It jumps ohms regularly. Tried different tanks to make sure it wasn’t the tank which was the issue. Also tried different OCC heads for Subtank mini on it, since they are a standard .5ohms.

    Could it be that the spring loaded connector is jammed? Stuck at the bottom?

    Worst case scenario, can I replace the 510 connector on my own? Could you link me to any?


    • HI Ahmad,

      Odd reading resistance is hard to track down since it can be a number of factors. First and most obvious is as you thought, a bad connection. If it’s a RDA/RBA I would check the screws are tight in the coil, making sure there’s no build up under the screw terminals and make sure your 510 connections on both the tank and the box-mod is clean. If this fails, there could be a electrical fault somewhere in your box-mod. Though it shouldn’t affect the performance of your device, if it’s functioning.

      As for links, I’d check some of the bigger forums: e-cigarette-forum.com

      Hope this helps. Good luck sorting it out and keep me posted.


  • roy

    my istick 50 watt quit charging what i could do to fix it

    • Honestly Roy,

      If I were you, I would seek warranty repair or replacement from your seller than attempt to fix it yourself.


  • Paul

    I got an istick 50 a little over a month ago. I use .2-.3ohm builds on a mutation x v3. Just of yesterday, when I fire it at my usual 42.0w it goes “low power” at around 3.2 seconds on a full charge. Then the battery indicator reads full again and repeat on next firing at 3.2sec firing. If I lower the wattage it’ll fire longer but still does the same. Like at 30w it’ll fire for about 4.5s before low power kicks in. Is the batteries having to much amp draw and kicking on a safety? As my battery drains this happens at lower firing times. Worked great up until yesterday. Any ideas? Do I need new batteries? Any help is appreciated.

    • Hi Paul,

      Now that’s really odd! I personally haven’t experienced any weirdness from my box-mod despite ripping her to bits a few times. So until I do, it’s gonna be really difficult to shed any light on the matter or explain what’s going on. Have you tried asking those nice folks over at e-cigarette-forum for their input? There’s many more users over there, somebody might have experienced the same or similar issues.

      Sorry I can’t help you on this, I’d be interested in hearing how you resolved this please keep me posted.


      • Paul

        Alright I’ll try over there. They’ll probably tell me to replace the unit. The 30 days are up so doubt my shop will replace it haha. I’ll let you know what happens.

        • Hi Paul.

          Wait…. You guys in the US only have 30 days warranty? That’s fucked mate.. Surely electronic products should have longer periods, I know PC components have several years.


          • Paul

            Yeah only 30 days for that particular store. Not sure what manufacturer warranty was, but it says warranty not available on products purchased from third party vendors. So basically it’d be a waste of time to contact the manufacturer.

          • Hi Paul..

            Hmm… I would check the terms listed here and try to get it replaced under an RMA direct with the manufacturer. Who knows, maybe you’ll get lucky.


          • Paul

            I sent them an email..fingers crossed. After doing some research it seems like the low voltage protection is kicking in. Whether the protection chip is malfunctioning or if the batteries are experiencing a voltage drop when firing, I don’t know, since as my batteries drain the firing time til protection kicks in drops. I’ll get a replacement box and then try replacing the istick batteries with high amp slow drain batteries and see how that goes. Could be I put the original batteries through too much stress, although I would expect them to last longer than a month at full capacity. When I get around to doing this I’ll let you know how it goes. Or if eleaf warranties my box which from other people’s comments on the site seems unlikely.

          • Thanks for the update Paul, please keep us posted as others reading this post could benefit should their box-mod fail.

            Personally I thought those 19650’s are fairly robust cells considering they’re found in near enough everything from electric trains to electric cars, bikes and your common laptop. However it’s possible that eLeaf were supplied with a faulty batch of batteries which didn’t maintain the high current rate a usual 18650 would but you and I wouldn’t know which is which unless the manufacture issues a recall.

            Today I learnt guarantees and warranties in different nations tend to vary a lot. Here in the UK, our consumer laws are pretty vigorous and in most cases when challenged, the consumer can win. Then it’s up to the seller to replace the product or offer a full refund.


          • Mike D

            Some shops only provide a 10 day warranty in the U.S., at least in north carolina, anyway.

  • Jon

    I purchased an iStick 50W battery from a local e cigarette store here in San Jose, CA. After 2 weeks of using it, the battery would intermittently shut off even when fully charged. Now even when I connect it to the usb charger it no longer powers on. What do you think the issue is. Some liquid got into the casing and onto the board? Loose wiring? Any tips would be great! Thanks!

    • Hi Jon,

      I would honestly return it and ask for an exchange. You won’t know till you try!!


  • roy

    what did you use take your istick apart with and thank you roy

  • Chris H.

    My Istick 50w was working great for the first couple of months. Then it started to fire on its own. I took it to the store where I purchased it and they were shocked. I would use it, set it down and a couple of seconds it would trigger on and off several times. I then blow on the tank while it still fired to keep the atomizer from getting hot and the clerk wisely suggested to turn it off. I paid 50 bucks for it and they wouldnt take it back at the store. I have been looking to contact Eleaf for repair. Keep an eye on this thing people, turn it off overnights at the very least!

    • Tracy keller

      OMG, just let it go. the istick 50,is junk, and dangerous. It was, and is a ridiculous joke.

  • Pingback: Sooo… You’re using an eLeaf iStick 50? | Ms. Nikita™()

  • Belly

    Was just using my eleaf 50w and it started to fire on its own and didn’t stop I took the tank off to try and stop it but the display went off and and it hasn’t worked at all since won’t charge nothing.
    What a pile of crap.
    I have only had it 6 weeks . If this had happened whilst I was asleep who knows what may of happened. I hear these batteries can catch fire

    • Hi Billy,

      If this had happened whilst I was asleep who knows what may of happened. I hear these batteries can catch fire

      18650 cells don’t tend to catch fire, at worst they’ll get really hot. smoulder, leak it’s fluid then suddenly explode. They will generate enough heat to cause damage to any textiles around it and will do release toxic fumes as they contain lithium salts. If this is happening then your unit is clearly shorting!! Time to discard it.

      I would make sure you switch the damn thing off during the night and never leave it charging unattended.


  • Benjamin

    Have you identified the chip? It looks like a yihi chip for sure. Possibly an sx350 mini.
    I’m thinking I may be able to flash it to 60watts.
    I am aware of the safeties, and removing the batteries before flashing.

    • Hi Benjamin

      No I haven’t.
      I no longer own an iStick 50.


  • mike c

    I am curious as to whether anyone has a problem with their 50w not reading certain tanks. I have two 50W eleafs and one will not read certain tanks (and thus not fire). It actually reads 0.0 ohms. Sub ohm or 1.8 it doesn’t matter certain tanks on this eleaf will not register but are fine when screwed upon the other. While other tanks and drippers seem to be fine.

  • Giorgi S

    hi Ms. Nikita

    Can you please help by providing any details about those batteries?

    i have two broken istick 50W, yes TWO of them! i`m really mad about that… Eleaf said i should send them back and they will replace them for new ones, but only shipping would cost me another 50$ which i believe is useless because i don’t think the new ones will last longer than few weeks… so the question is:

    can you help me find out specs for those batteries? do they have discharge rating at least 15AMP +?
    i tried to search for their website but could not find that model anywhere EVE18650CX – any help?
    or where else and/or how else can i find out what the “safe” discharge rate for those batteries are?

    • Hi Giorgi S.

      Thanks for your comment, I’m sorry for the delay in replying.

      As far as I know, they’re just regular 18650 batteries rated at 2200 mAh with solder tags. There’s nothing on the label to suggest what brand they are or specs details. I’m sure a little googling around will reveal what 18650’s you can use replace them.


      • Giorgi S

        i asked a wrong question,
        what i meant was following.

        those isticks are broken and ONLY batteries are good, tested them on multimeter and they hold the charge 4.12 volt, and they seem to work fine, so if i disassemble those isticks and at least use those batteries for my Mech Mod, do you think that is ok?

        for some .3 ohm builds those would require 14 amps continuous discharge rate, i searched for 18650CX and found some batteries, obviously chineese batteries that claim to be 55C rating, so would it be safe to use them for 14 amps load in a mech mod?

        i think yes, but your professional opinion would be nice too!

        and I understand you are not responsible for any answer/suggestion here, and for any risks I am responsible myself,

        i only need a suggestion 😛 or would you suggest just throw those mods away and live with it, that ive lost 110 bucks and drink 5 less beers next time i go out?

        thanks in advance,

  • Steve

    I dropped my iStick 50w from a height of about 2ft, on carpet, and ended up with one single horizontal line of pixels roughly in the middle of the screen(useless), So I pulled it apart to see if I could somehow manipulate the boards to show another line or two, so I could at least make sense of it. I was able to get almost all of the display lines back by gently pressing on the black taped section of the OLED display(between the ribbon and the screen), but as soon as I released my finger the display would go black again. So I pressed harder…and the tape covered part of the display section cracked completely and detached from the rest of the OLED screen.

    I’m guessing when it’s dropped the screen cracks, either partially or fully. I’ll bet if the heavy internals were more securely fixed, the display wouldn’t crack so easily.

    Oh well. Maybe I can salvage the batteries…

    No more eLeafs for me, especially at THAT price…with only a 60 day warranty(I bought mine in Feb.).

  • Brooke

    I am really wondering if I purchased at “fake” at a local store. I have a 30W that holds a charge for three days with the GSair tank. I now the 50W with a Aspire Atlantis tank. I barely get a full day. This doesn’t seem kosher to me. I vape 5ml per day. When I charge it the istick gets very hot at times!! I always wait for a full charge before disconnecting as well as us using the provided charger. One other thing please, I noticed that your battery did go all the way to a display of 50W while mine only goes to 30W???? This has always puzzled me. Could it be a fake?
    THANK YOU!!!

    • Hi Brooke

      Thanks for your comment.
      I’m curious has your iStick 50 ever managed to reach it’s maximum advertised power output or has the maximum output only ever been 30W?

      Personally I don’t have experience on this and it’s the first case that I heard, I am therefore wondering is the device genuinely faulty? Have you therefore considered contacting your supplier, perhaps negotiate a return or an exchange? If neither of those channels are a no go, search the forums for answers and possibly solutions. I’d recommend e-Cigarette-forum as it’s the oldest and biggest community.

      As for being ‘fake’. Well to tell you the truth I cannot imagine anyone in in their right mind would ever want to make a fake product of this cheaply piece of junk. Ever since publishing this post I’ve only ever heard from people with complaints with the occasional prays.


  • Kristina

    I have had my iStick 50W for about 2 weeks and my display just went out. I can’t tell if it is on or off. Before I bought this one I had the 20W iStick for about 1 month and the connector failed. I am disappointed in both of these products. This company seriously needs to step it up. I have shelled out a lot of money for these two batteries and to have them fail after a very short time is very upsetting. I will not be purchasing any other Eleaf products!!

    • Tracy keller

      yup, they suck. same situation for me. I just took my 50 watt apart and saved the batteries for my other good devices. i-sticks are great when and if they work. haha.

  • I have try to find pcb electronic circuit for eleaf istick mods…..it’s impossible!!!!!The Chinese don’t send any spare parts.
    It is a very serious problem!It is unbusinesslike !!!
    best regards

  • Sam

    For those having autofiring problems, what happens is that e liquid can drip into the fire button and cause a short between the button and the contact. Disassembling and drying off the contact should rectify the problem. However, when this happened to me, I didn’t have the right torx bit. So I blew in gently through the usb port with the button facing downwards and out came a drip or 2 of e liquid from the button. Fully solved my problem

    • Giorgi S

      my istick 50W was bone dry, never dropped a single drop of anything on it…
      and it does autofire, so that’s not the case for every one.. could be just the “lucky” problem, because it can be fixed/eliminated at-least..

      overall, as i said 2 dead isticks none lasted 30 days… i`m done with eleaf…

      • Martin

        Mine has started auto firing recently after a few months of use. It’s been well looked after and never had any juice leaked onto it. Received a response from eleaf (who I purchased it from) advising that 1.1% of devices shipped worldwide may contain faulty pcb. They’ve agreed to take it back (at their expense), inspect it and replace pcb if necessary. Overall impressed with the performance but have my doubts over the quality of this device. Will be looking elsewhere for my next device.

        • Hi Martin.
          That’s awesome news!! There’s been soo many people commenting on here who seem to get little to no response from eLeaf. They’re not very consumer friendly id you ask me, but that’s just my experience.


  • Dawson ‘

    Hello , so my istick Eleaf 50 watt was reading super high ohms ❓ so I tightened the screws on the posts down some and it was reading fine of a 0.5 ohms . Then today the ohms were high while I was out at work and I went to still take a puff and the box shut off. I have tried hitting the power button five times about 20 times LOL. And it won’t come on is there any. Thing I can do to make it work

    • Sam

      it has short protection which won’t let you turn the box on until it is plugged into the charger. plug the charger in and click the button 5 times should be good as new

  • Joe

    when my display 1/2 died i noticed beside the battery level indicator you can see in very tiny the watts setting and the ohms of the atty its very tiny compared to when the whole display was functioning but its still there…so I was ok with that but the next time i plugged it into charge the whole display stopped working vapor dna replaced the unit for me and let me keep the old one i still use it so when i find a setting that works I lock the adjustments buy holding down the arrows for a few seconds..then it works fine untill i need to change it again its a pain really but its a good back up unit still

  • I just got my eleaif istick 50w 2 months ago,with the atlantis 2.0 tank,using a 0.5 ohm coil..I purchased some replacement coils and just installed a new one and now the new coil is reading 0.7 ohms??? do I need another new coil or is there a way to fix this other than buying new coils??coils are from aspire as well,new in package

  • Dustin

    I got my iStick 50w about 2 months and had no problems. About a week ago I started noticing that the battery display was not decreasing. When it “died” I charged it and it displayed full charge and that I should unplug it. When I try to fire it it displays, low power, even though its charging or has been charged for hours. I’ve gotten it to work on and off but now it wont fire or charge, and is being ridiculous. After I press the button, it displays the timer for a brief moment, before bringing up the power low screen. When I turn it off I can’t get it back on without a charger. Does anybody know what I’m supposed to do?

  • Pingback: Within 2 Days, 2 Dead 50w Isticks - Page 2()

  • I bought 2 istick 50w back in April, the vendor replaced one that started a mild vibration whenever the power button was pressed, that was when it was 2 days in use. They’ve both been performing great since then until just recently (7/05/15). Within a few days of each other they both started the mild vibrating when I press the power button. It stops as soon as I release it, but this is something I’ve searched everywhere and have not found anyone else whose had this experience.

    I can’t believe I’m the only one that’s had this happen. I’ve emailed Eleaf twice with zero response and I can’t expect my vendor to replace them both after 3 months.

    They’ve worked awesome up until now and I usually get 3 full days use out of each when used in rotation. They don’t get hot when charging and charge within 3 hours to full.

    I’ve been vaping for 5 years now and never had any battery vibrate when using so this kind of freaks me to keep using, thinking I’m going to blow up my face any day now. They don’t do it every single time, I’d say 25% of the time they vibrate on the power button press. Anyone else had this happen out there???

    Cheers, Steve

    • Alan MN

      It’s probably vibrating because it’s in PWM mode. If true, that means you either have too low ohms or vape at really low watts. Go checkout pbusardo’s video review and select a coil ohm that doesn’t force your device into PWM mode.

  • Johnny Layne

    I have been through three 50w I sticks in three months. I’m done.

  • owais

    hey my isticks fire button doesnt work, like it was working then as i was vaping on it it hit the 10 secs mark, went for another blast and it just didnt respond, it wont fire, turn off only thing i can do is use the arrow keys on it :/ advice?

    • Unfortunately there’s not much you can do other than have the button replaced, ideally by someone who knows what they’re doing. The switch eleaf used is miniature unit and not commonly available.


    • I know this is a late reply, but have you tried plugging it in to charge? I’ve heard this is a type of reset for some problems. It may not apply to your problem.

  • taheer

    when i hit the fire button my screen shows locked, its not locked with the arrow keys i dont know what to do as i cant do much with it now. can anyone help me

    • Missy D

      My eleaf istick 50w is doing the same thing, did anyone help you figure out what was wrong?

  • Sean

    My 50w eleaf sceen does not work have any advice??

    • rkoja

      They sell replacements on AliEx…….. well you can figure out the site ,around 5 USD .

  • Mark

    Anyone been through airport security with an eleaf 50w iStick? I’m a Bit nervous taking it through encase they take it from me.

  • My istick 50w with short atomizer problem. already changed several atomizer, daisies, pulled up the central connector. I cleaned. the error has always shorts atomizer. Could someone help me? I have to change the connector it?

  • rkoja

    Does anybody maybe know where i could get the housing for the Eleaf istick 50W model.

    i would like to anodize it ,just in case i screw something up it would be great to have a backup housing.

    Pushing the 2 arrows for 3 sec doesn’t do the 180 turn of the screen only lock and unlock even 2 sec doesn’t work.???

  • Mario

    Sorry for my english (I’m from Italy)
    I’ve some problems with my iStick 30W.
    From Yesterday the fire button doesn’t work anymore
    The display is on, other functions like “change the watt power” with the arrows are ok
    If i pull out the tank the display show correctly “0 Ohm”, but if i hit the button doesn’t appear “No athomizer”……

    Is there some “hard reset” to try?
    Any suggestion?

    Thanks a lot!

  • Hello Everyone.

    Sorry if you comment has been lost. MsNikita.com suffered a site crash earlier this morning due to software glitches. Everything has been restored, minus the comment from the last 24 hours.


  • EngryEngineer

    Hi there, I’ve been researching battery packs similar to the istick 50 (2×2200 mah 18650s for capac, 7.5 v w/5.4v cutoff), and am seeing internal resistance listed from 20 to 500 milliohms. Any chance you measured yours? I’m loving mine and know I’ll screw it up taking it apart.

    Thanks much,

    • Hi EngryEnhineer,

      Thanks for your comment but unfortunately I no-longer own the iSrick 50 to test. Though the new owner appears to be really happy with my device despite it been torn apart to write this post a couple of times.


  • Kevin

    I recently took apart the istick 50w and this white rubber piece came out. I’m having a hard time finding out where it goes. Any suggestions?

    • Photo?

      • Kevin
        • Hi Kevin,
          Ahh.. Now I know what you’re talking about.
          This silicon/rubber square with the two holes goes on the up/down buttons, next to the OLED display. It’s there to give the buttons a ‘soft touch’. Best to place it on there as you’re sliding it into the housing. The two arrow keys were glued to my edition, or well they didn’t separate.

          Good luck,


          We heard that Vapor88 will be going out of business soon, which is rather sad 🙁 So I grabbed the those images from their blog. Hope you don’t mind dude, if there’s any issues please drop me a line via our quick contact button (bottom right).

          iStick50wTearDown (1)
          iStick50wTearDown (2)
          iStick50wTearDown (3)
          iStick50wTearDown (4)
          iStick50wTearDown (5)
          iStick-Teardown-Part2 (1)
          iStick-Teardown-Part2 (2)
          iStick-Teardown-Part2 (3)
          iStick-Teardown-Part2 (4)
          iStick-Teardown-Part2 (5)
          iStick-Teardown-Part2 (6)
          iStick-Teardown-Part2 (7)
          iStick-Teardown-Part2 (8)
          iStick-Teardown-Part2 (9)
          iStick-Teardown-Part2 (10)

  • FlatText

    Hi Ms. Nikita,

    I’ve recently dropped my 50w and now it doesn’t turn on at all. I’ve opened it up to see if there’s any loose connections and what not but I can’t see what could be the issue. I’ve also tested to see if it’s only the screen that stopped working but again, no such luck.

    Tried taking it to electronic shops here but no one would touch it since they don’t know what it is. My country, unfortunately, bans the sale of ecigs/eliquid. Thankfully I’ve got a 30w backup, but I really miss my 50w.

    Not sure if these pictures can help:


    • Hi FlatText,
      Problem solving hardware over the internet is an impossibility. It’s not like I’m guiding you to wire a plug, or fix a poorly built PC. There are lots of logic circuits in the device and anyone of them could have failed or shorted out. Worst, eLeaf don’t offer replacement parts or warranty. The best you can possibly do is buy used parts from other users, then use your soldering skills to selvage the unit.

      Better yet, sell the thing to someone who knows what they’re doing. You don’t want the thing shorting out and exploding.
      I’m sorry I can’t be of any help.


  • Hesnoh

    my eleaf screen froze at the counting (0.0S) its not counting up, it fire all the time, i tried to turn it off by clicking 5 times, clicked and hold everything, nothing worked. help

    • Nick Blackshear

      I’m having the same issue

  • Missy D


    Can you help me figure out why my eleaf istick 50w screen is showing locked when I press the fire button and it won’t let me vape?

    • Hi Missy D, souls like the device has been accidentally locked. The solution to unlocking your stick is at the end of my post.

  • Riley

    Hi my Eleaf was great for a while but now I don’t get nearly as much cloud as I used to even when it’s on 50w there isn’t much cloud can someone please help me on how I can fix this

  • Lorna

    Hi, my istick 50w display, even though locked is running when I take a vape and where the battery symbol is it shows a little round shape for a couple of seconds before returning to battery symbol, seems to be working fine but do you think this indicates some kind of warning

  • Joshua

    Hi, Miley Stick 50 watt fires on its own when my tank is screwed into a certain point even when the battery is off is there anything I can do to fix this?

    • Hey Joshua,

      This has to be the most common problem with the unit, the ‘stuck on fire‘ issue. I’m not aware of a solution and I can’t replicate the problem. Perhaps one of the other readers can help you here.

      Good Luck and Merry Christmas

  • Joshua,

    The only thing I know to try is turn it off, plug it in to wall power, turn it on then turn it off, unplug it and see if that corrects the problem. This works for several problems.
    I guess I’m lucky in that my vendor has replaced every one of my iStick 30’s and 50’s, even after 5 months.
    My only problem is a mild vibration when the power button is pushed. ELeaf says there’s no problem but don’t use it as a passthrough…hmm, sounds like they’re concerned about something.

    My latest replacements have been trouble free for several months now and I do really like them, especially the long battery life of the 50 watt.

    Good luck and Merry Christmas to all

  • Pete

    i just bought mine and its saying 0.0S when powering down…any idea what it was?